We breed for quality, not quantity.  We have 1 to 2  litters per year.

What size of australian labradoodles do you breed?

- we breed, medium and standard size only.

What colors and coat type do you breed?

- we breed all colors we specialize in rare colors such as red, lavender and parchment as well as cafe and chocolate.

-we breed soft hypo allergenic, non shedding, fleece and curly fleece only.

What is the cost of a Multigen Australian Labradoodle puppy with Kadli Cottage?

- All our puppies are $2700.  Here is the break down:

• $200 due with your application,

• $1250 at 4 weeks of age,

• $1250 due before the puppy goes home around 7 weeks of age.

Please note that this price does not include shipping.

All our puppies come with:

• Full 4+ generation pedigree.
• 2 years health warranty.
• Socialization with other animals, adults and children.
• Crate training.
• Potty training commenced.
• Vaccination for appropriate age.
• Microchip.
• Character assessment and temperament testing to ensure the right match for you and your family.
• Veterinary record of vaccinations.
• Veterinary certificate of spay/neuter.
• Comprehensive notes on care, raising and training.
• Lifelong support from Kadli Cottage.

Applications must be confirmed with your booking fee of $200. This is deducted from the final balance. Puppy prices are the same for all sizes (medium or standard), genders, colors or coat types.

Does Kadli Cottage has spay or neuter contract?

- At Kadli Cottage, we take care of this for you, before the puppy leaves (the cost is included in the price of your puppy). Veterinary research indicates that early spay/neuter is is healthier and kinder to the puppies. Desexing a dog costs around two hundred dollars and up so this is a big saving for you later on.  If you are interested in breeding australian labradoodles, please contact us for more information.

Do you have a waiting list and how long is the wait?

- Yes, we have a waiting list and we do encourage you to get on it once you have made your decision. Our website is updated on the status of our Dames and litters when relevant. Waiting time depends on your flexibility with your choice of color, size  and/or gender. Getting on our waiting list is free. Go to our application page for more information.

Do you ship puppies?

- Yes, and your puppy is well prepared for the journey. From birth your puppy has been conditioned with body stroking and handling and around two weeks of age (when their little eyes and ears are fully open) their visual and audio senses are stimulated with constant music and white noises like washer and dryer, dishwasher, car rides etc. The cost of shipping your puppy within the US is about $300 depending on your state. This price includes all travel arrangements made for you from Kadli Cottage to your closest airport, approved travel crate (you keep), Veterinary inspection and flight clearance, puppy comfort towel and chew toy, water/food dispenser, the flight.

Can we pick up our puppy, from Kadli Cottage?

- Yes, if you live in the Seattle area and wish to pick up your puppy we will be delighted to meet you in person! About two weeks before your puppy is ready we will call you to set up a pick up day and time. We do ask you to respect our privacy as a family with children and to not “drop in” or “drive by”.

Can we personally choose our own puppy?

- Times are changing. There is an increasing trend among conscientious breeders to select which puppy they will send to any particular home. The reason for this is that the breeder is already familiar with the puppies from the day they are born, and interacts with them all many times on a daily basis. At Kadli Cottage not only do we spend many hours interacting with your puppy we will also carry out a temperament and character analysis on each pup around seven weeks of age and you can be sure we will pick the right puppy for you and your family!

We do not believe in the long term kenneling of our dogs.  Dogs raised in kennels often do not get the socialization and stimulation that is needed to be a well balanced, happy animal.

Therefore, we like to place our upcoming babies in forever homes with suitable families as their dog and we retain breeding rights.  We pay for all health testing, and when the dog is old enough, they come back to our home for breeding and whelping.

When the dog reaches the age (usually somewhere around the age of five) where they should be retired from breeding, we spay the dog for you and the dog enjoys the wonderful home it’s had all it’s life.  Males are usually retained for siring babies for longer, but do not need to leave their families for long periods.

Fostering programs have many benefits for the foster family, the breeder and the dog:

- foster families have a ‘pick of litter’ puppy chosen by the breeder- the dog doesn’t need to be re-homed as an adult after retiring

- there is no need for the breeder to kennel the dogs

- the dogs are well socialized and in good environments

- foster families can schedule trips during whelping without paying for kenneling their pet

There are certain requirements for providing a foster home for one of our dogs.  Foster families must:

- own their own homes

- have a fully fenced yard

- take their dog to puppy obedience classes- ensure the puppy is well socialized

- provide veterinary care when needed

- feed a diet approved by the breeder

- notify breeder when a female begins her heat cycle

- must not allow a female around intact males during her cycle

- must not allow a male to breed other females!

- live within reasonable driving distance

- be interviewed by the breeder

If you think our foster program interests you, please feel free to contact us and see what we have coming available for fostering.

NOTE: It is normal that all colours may show bleaching and discolouration over the topcoat, referred to as sunning, this is quite expected and acceptable. The Australian Labradoodle is an active dog and often a service dog that enjoys the outdoors.

• Any solid colour is preferred and considered the ideal for the breed.
• In the solid colours it is preferred to have a solid colour coat with no white markings though a small white mark on the chest, and/or toes is permissible.
• Kemp [coarse hairs] sprinkled through a coat is permissible but very undesirable.
• Parti [Patched], Phantom, Brindle and Sable though not preferred are considered an acceptable colour.

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CHALK

This colour should be a white colour but when compared to white is rather a chalkywhite in colour. Nose pigment to be Black or Rose.

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CREAM

This colour should be a creamy colouring sometimes with apricot/gold tinting, all shades of cream are acceptable. Nose pigment to be Black or Rose.

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GOLD

This colour has also been referred to, as “apricot” should be the colour of the inside of a ripe apricot to varying shades of rich Gold in colour. A true Gold should not have a lighter root than the outer coat and preferable have an even colouration over the entire body. This colour may fade as the dog grows older. Nose pigment to be Black in colour.

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CARAMEL

Caramel refers to a gold dog with a rose/liver/brown nose, whereas a gold dog has a black nose.

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RED

This colour should be a solid even rich red in colour. A true red should not be lighter at the root than the outer coat. Reds can fade as the dog grows older. Nose pigment to be Black. [Rare colour group]

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BLACK

This colour should be a solid black in colour with no sprinkling of any other colour through the coat. Nose pigment to be Black.

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SILVER

This colour can range in shades from very light pewter in colour to a dark charcoal in colour it is preferred to see an even colour through the coat but acceptable to see uneven layering of colour in the coat. Silvers are born Black with the coat colour developing over time (1-3 yrs). Nose pigment to be Black.

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BLUE

This colour should be a dark to medium smoky blue in colour. Blues are born Black but will have a Blue/Grey skin pigment. The blue coat colour will develop over time (1-3yrs) but as a developed adult should have an even coat colour. Nose pigment to be Blue/Grey [matching the skin pigmentation]. [Rare colour group]

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CHOCALATE

This colour should be a dark rich chocolate in colour. True chocolates are born almost black in colour and maintain the rich dark colour throughout their lifetime. Colour should be even. Nose pigment to be Rose in colour [matching the coat colour]. [Rare colour group]

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CAFE

This colour ranges from a milk chocolate to silver-beige in colour and will develop over time (1-3yrs). Nose pigment to be Rose in colour [matching the coat colour].

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PARCHMENT

This colour is a creamy beige chocolate colour reminiscent of a cup of coffee with a generous addition of milk. Parchment dogs are born milk chocolate and will develop over time (1-3yrs). From a distance adult dogs can be mistaken for a dark or smoky cream. Nose pigment to be Rose in colour. [Rare colour group]

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PARTI

At least fifty percent white, with spots or patches of any other above solid colour. The head can be of a solid colour but white muzzle, blaze, or white muzzle/blaze combination (preferably symmetrical) are equally acceptable. Full or partial saddles are acceptable, as long as they do not exceed the colour proportion, but are not preferred. Ticking in the white of the coat is acceptable but not preferred. Nose pigment to match the solid colour requirements as listed above.

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PHANTOM

Solid base colour with sharply defined markings of a second colour appearing above each eye, on the sides of the muzzle, on the throat and forechest, or in a chin and forechest bowtie pattern as well as on all four legs and feet, and below the tail. A phantom without clearly defined face markings or one that presents with its whole face coloured in the second colour is acceptable, as long as it maintains all the other specified body markings. Any combination of acceptable colours is allowed. Nose pigment should follow requirements listed above based on the Solid base colour.

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ABSTRACT

Less than fifty percent white, with the remaining percent any other acceptable solid colour.

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SABLE

A coat represented by black-tipped hairs on a background of any solid colour, with no particular pattern/location designated for such hairs.

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BRINDLE

Should have an even and equal distribution of the composite colours with layering of black hairs in regions of lighter colour (usually, chalk/cream/gold/red, cafe/lavender/parchment, or silver) producing a tiger-striped pattern.

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MULTI-PATTERNED

A dog that clearly exhibits more than one of the acceptable colour patterns, such as; a Parti with full or incomplete phantom markings (facial markings with or without presentation of the diamond under the tail), or a Phantom with additional abstract markings, etc.

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The ideal Fleece and Wool coats can be spun successfully. Hair coat [Hair texture that sheds] is undesirable and is a major fault. It is important that the coat gives the impression of being a fleece in type rather than dog hair.

There should be no body odor or shedding in the Fleece and Wool coat [with the exception of the Hair coat, which both has odor and sheds in varying degrees, usually seen in the early generation dogs].

It is acceptable to see a coat change from the puppy to adult coat, and also during hormonal changes in fertile bitches. This coat does not shed, but should be groomed out.

FLEECE COAT

Texture should be light and silky similar to the texture of the Angora Goat. Appearing to contain a silky lanolin in texture. Appearance can range from an almost straight loosely waved to an obviously waved coat, Kemp is often found around eyes and along the top line. The absence of Kemp is highly prized..

WOOL COAT

Texture is denser than that of the Fleece with a similar texture to that of Lambs Wool. Appearing to contain a sheep lanolin in texture. The ideal wool coat should hang in loose hollow spirals. It is acceptable to exhibit a spring appearance rather than spiral but a sprung wool coat is undesirable. An overly thick or dense coat is also undesirable.

HAIR COAT

The other coat type still seen today in Earlier Generation Labradoodles, is the Shedding Hair coat, which varies from thin short wiry to long combination but occurs in around 89% of First Generation Labradoodles. We do not breed these.

This important distinction is often lost these days if you surf around on the various labradoodle sites in the U.S. To help any of our visitors understand the difference, here’s a quick summary:
History
The story of the Australian Labradoodle goes back to 1988, when one Wally Conran, of Royal Guide Dogs, Melbourne Australia, was asked by a woman in Hawaii if there was any way to get a low/no-shedding guide dog who wouldn’t aggravate her husband’s allergies. Wally had the idea that possibly crossing a Labrador Retriever (a proven Guide breed) with a Standard Poodle (whose curly coat is low-shedding and hypoallergenic). The puppies this mating produced were inconsistent: one of the three did indeed have a low-allergy coat, but the other two did not.
Wally had trouble finding home for these mutts (even though all three of the first litter ended up with the right temperament and intelligence to become Guide and Remedial dogs), so he went on the news calling them “a new breed of Guide Dog: the Labradoodle”. This marketing tactic worked, and virtually overnight, “unwanted mutt” became “impossible to find exotic new breed”.
If this had been the end of the tale, the story would be one of more hype than substance: giving a mutt (even a smart, friendly one) a fancy name doesn’t make it a new breed of its own! But Wally knew he was onto something here, and continued experimenting, breeding (what we now call) F1 Lab/Poodle mixes to each other (yielding F2’s), and then F2’s to F2’s (yielding, you guessed it, F3’s).
Beverly Manners (a long-time breeder and show judge of German Shepherds, Scotch Collies, Rottweilers, as well as Persian cats and horses) and her daughter Angela discovered the labradoodle, and formed Rutland Manor and Tegan Park Breeding and Research Centres (respectively) to continue where Wally left off, selectively breeding choice labradoodles to each other and occasionally to dogs of other specific breeds.
Nowadays
Multi-generation Australian Labradoodles are a breed unto themselves (although not yet recognized by the American Kennel Club) – and are not just a dog with one parent being a poodle and the other a lab. They have been purpose-bred for specific qualities from the following parent breeds: Poodle, Labrador Retriever, Irish Water Spaniel, Curly Coat Retriever, Cocker Spaniel (American or English), and most recently, the Irish Wheaton.
This may seem like a subtle distinction, but it is an extremely significant one. When you see a listing for an “F1 Labradoodle” (or goldendoodle), you’re hearing about the puppies of a Labrador and a Poodle (or a golden retriever and a Poodle):

The result of this first generation mix is inconsistent: will the puppies be allergy friendly? When Wally Conran (the man who coined the name “labradoodle”, and who is credited as being the first to intentionally breed a hypoallergenic dog with a temperament suitable to be a guide/service animal) first tried this out in the late 80’s, the first litter of three pups had one with an allergy-friendly coat. The other two had partially shedding labrador-like hair coats which was not allergy-friendly. This is probably typical of first-generation labrador/poodle crosses, as there is no reason to expect that the offspring will simply pick up the best qualities of both breeds!
How does the authentic multigenerational Australian Labradoodle differ from this? The name is a good place to start:
• authentic: comes from the original lines bred first by Wally Conran, and then continued by the Rutland Manor and Tegan Park Breeding and Research Centres, with specific goals in mind:
o Allergy-friendliness: as opposed to a first-generation cross, Australian Labradoodle puppies will end up with hypoallergenic low-shedding coats with more than 95% likelihood,
o Family-friendly attitude: non-aggressive, child-friendly mellow playfulness has been a driving force in the breed.
o Intelligent: bred as patient Guide dogs originally, many have also gone on to successful careers as Therapy dogs, as the breed now consistently produces highly trainable and intelligent animals.
• multigenerational: while a poodle/labrador mating will produce inconsistent F1 puppies (with varying degrees of allergy-friendliness, which cannot always be known by an inexperienced breeder when the dog is still young), when select members of the litter are chosen and bred to a poodle or other poodle/labrador cross, and then the offspring of that mating are observed and mated with animals known to carry genes of certain desired traits, after five or six generations of this, qualities start to “set” – you get a labradoodle whose offspring with a variety of mates all consistently have these qualities.
• Australian: Not just a Labrador Retriever and a Poodle, but a breed purposefully created in Australia, of these plus choice animals of breeds carefully chosen for specific qualities (and the desire for a broad genetic base to minimize risk of running into a genetic dead end).
But if you really want to see the difference between an Australian multigen Labradoodle and what you can end up with if you don’t do your research carefully, just look:

Bonding and getting to know your Kadli Cottage Australian Labradoodle puppy is important right from the start. This is a nice exercise Kadli Cottage clients and families can perform with their Australian Labradoodle puppy to begin establishing your wonderful life-long bond.

Four Reasons for the Bonding Exercise

1. Establishes your dominance (leadership) over your Australian Labradoodle puppy in a non-aggressive manner.

2. It will help you develop a close bond between you and your Australian Labradoodle puppy.

3. Allows you to give your Australian Labradoodle puppy a complete body check everyday. Things such the start of an ear infection, small lumps, ticks, cuts, etc. can go unnoticed and if you catch them early it will be easier to treat.

4. Teaches your Australian Labradoodle puppy that it is OK for you to touch all parts of their body. For example if you need to put eye drops in your puppy’s eyes it will make things a lot less challenging if you have done this exercise right from the start.

Set the Tone

Wait until your Australian Labradoodle puppy has settled and is not in a heightened state of excitement – after a good hearty play session with a few minutes to settle down is a good opportunity. Have the room quiet or with soft mellow music playing. You relax and settle yourself. During this whole exercise, use a slow calming voice. When touching the puppy you should use soft slow stokes. Moving too quickly, pressing too hard can activate and excite the puppy.

Position your Australian Labradoodle Puppy

Sit your Australian Labradoodle puppy facing away from you: kneel, or sit with your legs spread outward, behind your puppy and put them in a sitting position by placing your arm behind and just under their bum and push his chest back with your other hand. Gently tuck him into a sitting position. Do not press down on his bum because it is bad for his hip joints. You can also utilize a treat to lure the puppy in a sit position.

Down your Australian Labradoodle puppy: lift both front legs gently place the puppy in a down position or lure the puppy to the down position utilizing a treat. Do not force them down by pressing on their shoulder blades because this is bad for the shoulders. If your puppy goes to get up at any point during this exercise growl at them (GRRRRRRR) a loud forceful growl like his mother would do and place them back into the down position. You may have to repeat this numerous times initially but this will calm your puppy right down and they will become relaxed.

Begin the Exercise

1. Gently massage the shoulders. Tell your puppy what you are doing throughout the entire exercise (say “shoulders” over and over while you are doing this)

2. Move your hands down the front legs pads of the feet, under the arm pits and under the tail and massage them (say “legs”)

3. Touch between all the webs (between their toes) (say “webs”)

4. Touch all the nails (say “nails”) you can clip them/file them at this point.

5. Move your hands up to the head and start massaging the head (say “head”) your puppy should be very relaxed at this point.

6. Look in the eyes and pull down the eyelid (say eyes) you are making sure everything looks normal, no cloudiness, no guck or rolling in/out of the eye lids etc.

7. Lift up the lip (say “teeth”) you can take a finger toothbrush and brush your puppy’s teeth and massage their gums.

8. Lift up the ears (say “ears”) make sure they are clean and pluck or trim any hair that may be accumulating inside the ear. You can do this by taking your fingers and just pulling it out. It comes out fairly easy and doesn’t hurt them if done a little bit at a time.

9. Move your hands down to the chest and start massaging the chest (say “chest”)

10. Place your puppy on their left side. Check under the stomach, check the pads of the feet, under the arm pits and under the tail. In male puppy’s that are un-neutered check the testicles for lumps because un-neutered males can develop testicular cancer.

11. Place your puppy on his right side by gently rolling them over on their back and then onto their other side. You do this roll by taking hold of all legs and just guide them over. Check under the stomach, check the pads of the feet, under the arm pits.

Once you have completed all these steps say “release” or “free” and give your Australian Labradoodle puppy lots of praise! Then take your puppy outside for potty.

Information found from www.idog.biz

First generation labradoodles are the offspring of a Poodle crossed with a Labrador.  We use the ALA grading system, where this offspring is represented as an LO1, which stands for Labradooodle Origin 1st generation.

Around 90% of these LO1 first generation labradoodles shed. The LO1 is usually crossed back to a poodle (sometimes referred to as backcrosses) and these resulting labradoodles are represented as LO2p (still only lab x poodle). The genetic match between the parents of this labradoodle determines whether the puppies will be shedding.  There are usually one or two  throwbacks in LO2p litters that shed to some degree.   Multi-Generation means the dog is more than a first generation labradoodle,  but does not mean that the dog is an Australian Labradoodle Foundation (ALF) or Australian Labradoodle (AL).

The LO2p is usually bred to an ALF dog of a the same or higher generation  or an approved parent breed infusion, in order to advance from LO (Labradoodle Foundation Lab x Poodle) to ALF (Australian Labradoodle Foundation which has more than just the origin Poodle and Labardor Parent Breeds).  For a new breed of dog such as the Australian Labradoodle to become recognized by the International Breed Clubs, it must be a cross of more than just 2 breeds of dogs, thus the reason for the 3rd required approved parent breed infusion or crossing with an ALF dog (which already has the 3rd required approved parent breed infusion).

Parent Breed Infusions in the past are known to have been American/English Cocker Spaniel,  Golden Retriever, Curly Coated Retriever and Irish Water Spaniel.    An LO2 crossed with an approved parent breed infusion or ALF2 or higher dog, then advances to ALF with the generation number increasing one number/generation above their parent with the lowest generation number. For example an LO2 mated with an ALF3 produces a ALF3 or an ALF3 mated with an ALF6 produces a ALF4.

When an ALF Labradoodle has 4 successive generations of Labradoodle X Labradoodle, it  becomes an (AL) Australian Labradoodle  (Foundation and  all numbers are dropped as the dog has advanced to a  pure bred Australian Labradoodle which would be register-able as a pure bred dog with the International Breed Associations, once the breed is recognized).

Only (AL pure 4 generations of labradoodle to labradoodle) Australian Labradoodles will be recognized by the ANKC in Australia and  other requirements are that there must be 500 entire dogs registered by an association which has been incorporated for 15 years.  The Australian Labradoodle Assoc has now been acting as an incorporated registering body of Laradoodles for almost 10 years.  There are several other Labradoodle Breeders Clubs that have recently sprung up in what I see as effort to provide these breeders  prospective puppy purchasers, with a level of legitimacy.

Only one Association, the ALA will have the required credentials to submit the Australian Labradoodle for Breed Recognitons with the ANKC.  By supporting the ALA and purchasing your Labradoodle from an ALA Breeder; you are supporting the protection and  future recognition of the Australian Labradoodle.  Purchasing your dog from a non-ALA breeder will only serve to further delay the acceptance, recognition and registration of the Australian Labradoodle with the ANKC.

Do not get hung up on the idea that the higher the number of generations of your Labradoodle, that this somehow makes it a better dog.  There are very few dogs in the world that yet qualify as (AL) Pure Australian Labradoodles.  Lots of dogs may be registered as ALF6p, (p means a poodle was used in the last generation) but are 4 generations from being a AL pure Australian Labradoodle, compared with a ALF3 labradoodle  that may only be 2 generations away from AL, if mated successively with labradoodle to labradoodle.    Crossing a Poodle or approved parent breed infusion with a labradoodle means the resulting offspring will  require 4 more generations of labradoodle X labradoodle,  before they reach AL pure Australain Labradoodle.

There is nothing wrong with mating to a poodle to correct coat or to achieve rare colors, but it means the resulting offsping are required to have another 4 generations of labardoodle to labradoodle to become an (AL pure) Australian Labradoodle.

The health of your labraoodle, improved via genetic diversity, is much more important than its generation number.  A Non-Shedding healthy new line ALF3 Labradoodle is just as good as an ALF6p Labradoodle.  Be more concerned that the breeder you choose is breeding for the health and genetic diversity of labradoodles, not jut to produce as many puppies as possible from the same old lines.

If they are not making new lines, they are just making puppies.  We need new breeders but new breeders who are willing to take risks, by producing new lines.  It takes 14 dogs just to make one new ALF3 line.

Breeding new bloodlines is very rewarding when all goes according to plan, but things do not always go according to plan and not every dog is cut out to be a suitable mother or stud, some don’t pass their health tests and others just don’t have appropriate temperaments, so in reality it probably takes at least 18 dogs to produce that one new bloodline.

Please be aware and appreciate; all the work that goes into producing new lines of Australian Labradoodles.

Housetraining your Kadli Cottage Australian Labradoodle puppy doesn’t have to be a headache.

The more vigilant the family is about eliminating your Australian Labradoodle puppy’s opportunity to have accidents and rewarding successes, the quicker and easier the pup is trained, says Julie Jackson, canine behavior coordinator for the Dane County Humane Society in Madison, Wis.

Begin training the first day you take your Australian Labradoodle puppy home.

How often you’ll need to take your Australian Labradoodle outside depends on his activities. Puppies normally need to go to the bathroom after they eat, drink, play, chew, or sleep.

After each of these activities, take your Australian Labradoodle puppy outside on a leash and take along a tasty treat about the size of a pea.

Try to go to the same spot each time. The odor from the previous visits will remind your Australian Labradoodle puppy why he’s there.

Once your puppy starts to eliminate, softly give them praise. (If speaking interrupts your puppy, though, don’t say anything.)

When your Australian Labradoodle puppy finishes, immediately give your puppy the treat and more praise.

Sometimes puppies urinate or defecate more than once per outing. After your puppy relieves himself, don’t rush back inside. Wait a few more minutes just in case.

If you’re outside for more than 10 minutes and your Australian Labradoodle puppy has not gone to the bathroom, but you think your puppy has to, go inside. Wait 10 minutes. Then return outside and try again. Keep this up until your puppy goes.

Make your Australian Labradoodle puppy’s elimination schedule will become more predictable by feeding him the same amount of food, at the same time, everyday. (Sudden diet changes can cause diarrhea.)

To prevent indoor accidents, keep close tabs on your Australian Labradoodle puppy. Jackson recommends using a lightweight, 10-foot leash with a clasp on one end. Tie the leash around your waist or belt loop, and hook the clasp to your dog’s collar.

Now everywhere you go, he goes too. Look for signs that your puppy may need to eliminate, such as sniffing the floor in circles, or trying to run out of sight.

If you’re not home during the day, use a baby gate to confine your pup in a room with tile or linoleum to make cleaning up accidents easier.
During your lunch break, go home to let your puppy outside. If you can’t, consider hiring a pet sitter, or asking a neighbor.

Housetraining pads are an unnecessary step in the housetraining process, according to Jackson. Your puppy is capable of learning right from the start that the appropriate place to eliminate is outside.

When an accident happens, don’t yell, hit or rub his nose in the mess.

If you catch puppy in the act, clap your hands and startle them, she says. Then scoop him up, take him to the backyard, and reward the puppy for finishing out there.

If the puppy goes to the bathroom but you didn’t see him do it, just clean up the mess. Don’t say or do anything.

Your pup will start reliably going outside within several weeks, but Jackson warns not to let the puppy have too much freedom, too soon.

Understanding Your Dog

Dogs are not humans. Before they receive love and affection, they need exercise, clear direction, and leadership. Giving them love alone doesn’t create balance in their lives. Be a pack leader!

Rehabilitating a dog is not about “fixing” it. It’s about you, the owner, creating the intention for what you want, not what you’re feeling. Dogs pick up on feelings of fear, doubt, or worry – and they will move to fill them by attempting to become dominant.

Practice unwavering leadership every day, especially on your walk. The energy you’re projecting internally is the message you’re sending to your dog.

Dedicate at least 45 minutes of time to the dog’s walk in the morning. Let the dog know you have a consistent pattern that you expect it to follow. Utilize your dog’s energy in a positive manner.

Don’t expect more from your dog(s) than your own children. Dogs need discipline, too. Give them rules, boundaries, and limitations as well as love.

Avoid nurturing your dog’s fears or unstable mind. Imagine a successful scenario and hold it in your mind when dealing with your dog.

You are the source of your dog’s energy. You are the role model.

Challenge the dog’s mind – dogs want to know what to do with their lives. Let the dog work for your affection. Once in a calm-submissive state, your love will intensify those qualities in your dog.

Dogs need “on” and “off” time. Engage them fully in structured times together; then they can relax and avoid impatient or destructive behaviors. Dogs show us how much we can learn – they live in the moment. Try it!
About The Author

Cesar Millan is a world-renowned dog behavior specialist, known for his uncanny ability to walk large packs of dogs at a time. For more information, please visit www.cesarmillaninc.com

My advice to you is to :

Try to feed a good quality food and try to feed your dog a diet that is consistent. i.e. don’t feed dry food one night, table scraps another, a can of supermarket dog food the next. After speaking to friends in the veterinary field they suggested that dogs that seemed to be fed a consistently high quality diet had the least health problems. You will probably find that if you change your dogs diet too frequently they
will suffer from loose stools or diarrhea.

Make an informed choice. Educate yourself before making your decision. There is an immense amount of information available on the internet. I have included a couple of the best/most popular sites below. It’s easier to make a decision on what is best for you if you do your research.
http://www.barfworld.com/ for information on the Barf diet. A general internet search will give
you many many other sites.

http://www.iei.net/~ebreeden/kibble.html for information of what’s in dry dog food. This may help you to decide on which brand of dry dog food is best for you. Remember you usually get what you pay for.

NEVER EVER feed COOKED bones. Dogs digestive systems have been designed to breakdown raw bones but cooked bones don’t digest properly. We like to give our dogs a large split or whole marrow bone once a week. I start giving these when the puppy starts destructive chewing. We have found that this is the most effective way to help reduce the amount of destructive chewing they do during their ‘adolescent’ years. It is so much nicer to chew on a tasty big bone than on shoes, pot plants rugs (much nicer for you too). Some people don’t recommend feeding these large hard bones as they can wear down the dogs teeth.

Don’t give your dogs chocolate it is toxic to them.

Don’t give your dog onions and be very careful of corncobs. Dogs seem to love corn but the
cob isn’t digestible and can cause a blockage.

Always have a good sized supply of fresh water. Try to change your dogs water at least once a day. And remember to wash that bowl with soap and water or to run it through the dishwasher at least every other day!

Remember puppies are like toddlers they will put anything in their mouth. So put away plastic bags chemicals, rat and snail bait etc. Make sure your rubbish bin in not accessible.